Goodbyes La kown

Moving on from the farm and from Ban Phoudindaeng was not easy.  I had an amazing two months and I met some truly facsinating and wonderful people. Allthough not moving fysically this might have been my most rewarding jerney during my stay in Asia. Mentally I have travelled to new grounds and I have grown more than I thought possible.  I am truly grateful to all the people at the farm and the amazing people in Ban Phoudindaeng for showing me how beautiful people can be and for showing me the beauty within myself. I  leave the farm as a new person, a person I have come to like; I trust myself now and I feel I can rely on my own judgement.

There is no such thing as an easy goodbye and I grieve the gooidbyes I had to meke these last few days. To the  wonderful,  cuddly, playful kids in the first class; to Jii  who used to come up to me and  wanted to sit in my lap and to Lii  who had the prettiest most mischievous smile I've ever seen, to Toung  who always cried out the answer to all the questions first and with a smile on his face and to all the other kids who simply were the most lovable  kids I have ever met, dressed in the same torn and dirty  clothes every day and with tangled unwashed hair but still so beautiful.

I will sincerely miss all the students in the second class  who let me be there friend without question. Who treted me as a teacher when it was time for class but as a friend  when  the class finished. Enjoying 'One mah' two mah" and "zero, zero, seven, bah!' and celebrating Pi Mai Lao. Always joking, singing, smiling and openly   welcoming. Good people good friends and I will miss them so much!

Houa,  Yeng, Hai and Ong. If you were born  a little closer we would have been best friends. Hanging out with you  made me forget time. I know you will probably never read this but I really love you. I will call you tonight, I promise!


Insights

This week has been a busy week, filled with new knowledge and old reminders.

Last Friday I decided to take Houa to the hospital. She is clearly not well, sha has an awful cough and is crazy skinny, she can't eat properly and her skin is some kind of yellowish. I e-mailed for a bit with Naomi's mum (who is a doctor) who gave me a list of different deseeses it could be, anything from malnutrition to HIV, so In thought we'd better have a check at the hospital.

This turned out to be a really interesting experience.

We saw a number of different nurses and doctors who all took one look at her, felt her pulse or checked her ears and then scratched their heads and said hm.. hm.. and then sent her off to somebody else. She ended up being tested for some kind of hear problem where they concluded her heart was fine and then perscribed some medicine for her. I had my doubts about it but we got the medecin and went back.

After a few days I asked Houa how she felt and she said it was much better, which made me very happy of course and we decided to go to the market to buy some more before I left, since she can't afford it on her own. By a chance Kirstie came along to the market and she nows a thing or two about medecine. It turned out the medecine they perscribed for Houa was super strong pain-killers (the stuff you would have to have a perscription for back home), anti depressants and vitamines. No wonder she felt better! They perscribed her to take them three times a day, she must have been walking on clouds.
I guess I was a bit naive to trust the Lao medical system, but the hospital was newly built, with Belgian money and it is very nice and clean and proper. But as always looks can be deceving. I bet they are ok with broken bones and childbirth but anything beyond that is too much of a challenge. Lesson learnt.

The sewing shop is coming nice and slowly, but as with everything in Laos it's one step back, two steps forward. There are so much politics involved in everything! For example we had to change the sign just because the police doesn't like the Lao letters being underneath the English letters. And we can't market it as a Hmong shop because people still think the Hmong are traitors because their involvement with the CIA during the Vietnam War. It takes a long time trying to understand this country and it's complex history. It's both interesting and tirering. But I'm learning!

I had a bit of a change of plans for this weekend. Mr. T asked me and, Kirste and Cameron if we wanted to go with the family to Ponsavan and the Plain of Jars in the east of Laos and we are all going tomorrow. I think it will be very interesting. Plain of Jars is a very important historical site and it is also one of the places where you best can see the destruction caused by the US during the Vietnamese War and the Secret War. Laos is after all the most heavily bombed nation in the world. 

After Plain of Jars I'll continue to Luang Phrabang and my adventures up north.

So tonight is my last night and it is sad as always when you're leaving a place you have come to feel at home at. A lot of people to say good bye to and a lot of kisses and farwells. But I feel pretty good about it, I'm ready to set off, to see new places and I really long to be on the move again. Also i long to be egoistic, to care about nothing but myself. During my time here I have really put my heart and mind into things and I feel a bit drained. I don't think I am an awful person for admitting that it will be nice to not give a damn about anybody for a while. Don't get me wrong, I have receaved much more than I've been giving, in tearms of understanding and knowledge and just in my own growth. But I think it will dawn on me when I leave the farm, just how much this place and these people have given me. I will realize the extent of it in time, right now I can;t grasp it. It's too close.

One month and one week left of travelling,
that feels good.

At the farm

At the farm
Me and Andrew posing by the mural promoting the school bus project which is up and running right now at the farm.

View from the top

View from the top
Looking out over Phoudindaeng and the Organic Farm while climbing the mountain on our adventurous excursion last week. Just taking a breather...

Doris

Doris
Hai, Ong and Yeng posing with Cameron's masterpiece: Doris, the bamboo manequine. Today dressed in traditional Hmoung clothing and decorating the handicraft shop.

Outside the school

Outside the school
Hanging out outside school before little kid's clas. Having fun with chalk. I just noticed I hav almost no good photos of the kids or class, I don't want to take photos during class but I think I'll have to make an exeption to that rule tonight for my last class... It would be sad not to have any good pictures.

Pi Mai Lao

Pi Mai Lao
Kirste, Cheryl, me and Ying Yang had a blast at Pi Mai!

Picknick at Pi Mai

Picknick at Pi Mai
Our amazing picknick with the older students at Pi Mai. We had a great time and everything was "Sep lai, lai!" = very deliciuous. It was a really amazing day we had, this pic is taken maybe five minutes before the waterfight begun and we were all soaked.

The famous five

I am writing from the end of a busy week. 

Pi Mai (Lao New Year) is a three day event. Well really it's a three day drunken waterfight, but it is marvellous and exhausting. For the last day of Pi Mai we thought we'd escape the throwing of water by being in the water so we rented tubes (upplasbara traktordack) in town and took a tuck tuck upstream. We spent the day floating down the Nam Song. Chilled out indeed, but we all got sunburnt and looked like four beetroots. The we I'm mentioning so frequently consists of a very nice group; for the floating it was me, Cameron and a Scottish girl, Chery and her Malysian boyfriend Mysoul. Really, really nice people. We have been a good group of people at the farm for the last week or so, well actually, when Cam and I discussed it is almost always a good group staying at the farm. It is as if all the nicest and most decent people from the traveling scene are being hand picked to come and stay here. I guess that that is kind of close to the truth, since it takes a little scouting to find the farm. The people who find it and makes the effort to come here are either interested in organic farming, English teaching or humanitarian projects and the rest just needs a break from the crowd and all the shit that is actually going on while backpacking. But now I lost my focus...

Oh, yes my busy week....

Wednesday a group of five strong and adventurous explorers set of on a trekk to find out what was actually on the other side of the mountain across the farm (we were very curious). It was the four people mentioned above and the fifth was our guide Marc, an English guy who kind of had been up the mountain before. Sort of. He proved to be an excellent guide though and we had a wonderful day!
Our first task was climbing the razor sharp limestone cliffs that formes the mountain side. Here Marc find it amusing to tell us the story of the last time he'd been up there; the time when Mr. Thi's son in law got bitten by a poisonous snake. "He didn't die, did he!?" "No, don't worry, he was paralyzed from the neck down and spent three weeks in total agony but after that he was fine." By the way; based on a true story.
We continued nonetheless up, up, up hill until we came to the top of the pass. Here we saw some really amazing 'rain'forest (in my world it was rainforest, it had amazingly tall trees and it was very green and damp and it had all the sounds of a proper rainforest). Here Marc choose to tell us about the features of a dengue mosquito which we imidiately recognized as the mosquitos buzzing around our sweaty heads. "Don't worry, dengue fever is not particularly common in Laos, I think."
After surviving bridges made out of a single mouldy log and all the other dangers of the 'rain'forest we reached a vally that was totally burnt. Illegal lodging and slash and burn farming is common here and it was a real pity to see it. All those old beautiful trees, and it's spreading. After that we 'macheted' us through a banana plantation (we didn't actually have a machete, but we sure wished we had one).
After a bit of skillfull pathfinding we made our way out to a beautiful, peacefull vally covered in rice fields and with magnificent mountanious surroundings. It took your breath away. We walked through the vally until we reached the other end. Here Marc presented us with the choice of either climbing a small pass to get back or to go through the cave/ tunnel that goes through the mountain. "But I think I should warn you; there were two Austrailan girls who got lost in there last year. They died from thurst." We decided climbing sounded lika a good idea.
After a beautiful walk in a dryed out river we made our way back to the safety of the farm. We were out for over seven hours but we all had a smile on our faces for the whole time; eventhough it rained for the last half hour and we were all soaking wet. It was a wonderful day!

By the way the sewing shop opened today! The girls had their first costumers for sewing class, five people, and they did a great job. I really believe in this project and I'll tell you all more about it later. Gotta run now though.

And also, I just booked my ticket for Singapore; online (very proud indeed). I'll go there on the 13th of May, so that's the latest news.

Miss and love you.


Sabaidee Pi May!

Load up your guns.Secure your camera in plastic. Put on dark clothes. Get your hair out of your face. Regress 10 years. Put on a smile and practice your laugh. It's Lao New Year!

What do you do for lao new year?
- We play!
But what do you do really?
- We play!

I didn't get it before; but now I do. Lao New Year is play. It's three days of play. It is smearing sot in eachothers faces, laughing, throwing chalk in eachothers hair, eating good food, swimming in the river, playing rattanball, hanging out, drinking beer lao, drinking laolao. But above all it is a giant waterfight! And everybody is a target, it is being wet for three days and it is hilarious!

First day was yesterday and wow. Top five days of this jerney for sure. Started with some games with the kids in the village and continued with a wonderful picknick in the grass outside the school. All local specialites, and, wish granted Jackson, I'll tell you abut them. There was bbqed fish, fresh from the Nam Song, stuffed with lemongrass, there was papaya salad with cold white noodles, there was cold green stirfried spicy lao greens and morning glory (my favourite) there was delicious bamboo soup, there was sticky rice, there was pumpkin and bananas filled with coconut for dessert. Mmmmm..... the Lao fod at it's best!

The the waterfight begun and what a fight. I got at least 15 liters of water poored over my head or splashed all over me. The waterthrowing is to wash all the bad spirits off and I assure you; there is not one little bad spirit left in me. But to be sure we continued the day by throwing ourselves in the river and floating down to some bars where the party was on. We did some Lao dancing (which we learnt Friday night when we watched the local beauty pageant for Miss Vang Vieng Lao New Year) and we swung from the swings and swam in the river. All great fun!

Today it continues and I have already been splashed twice on my way into town. It looks like a promising day!

Besides these festivities I had a busy week. I have started a project with some of my Hmong friends and we are trying to start a small shop, selling Hmong handicrafts and giving embrodery classes to foreigners staying at the farm. It is a way to easen their lives a little since for two hours of sewing classes they can charge as much as they get for a bag they spend two weeks sewing. Also it is a way for the girls to strengthen their possition in th comunity and also it is a project which aim to give the Hmong a sense of pride for their traditional handicraft. The shop will be managed by the girls who cannot afford to go to school but it is a project which involves all the girls in the village. This week we have mostly spent in front of the computer trying to copy down the traditional Hmong patterns into readable instructions to be thaught. It is a very interessting project and we have fun doing it. Hopefully the shop and the classes will be up and running by the time I leave Vang Vieng.

Times is passing very fast at the moment. Is it the same back home?

Enjoy your tea and cookies,
Love you

Tham Loob

The water is clear and turqoise, cold but not to cold; refreshing. I sink down to my chin to get used to it before I climb up on my inflatable tube and grab the line which will take me into the cave. My feet touch the water and it feels good on my toes which are hot from biking. I turn on the flashlight, take a deep breath and start to pull the line. Surprisingly easy I move into the cave. Soon there is no more daylight and the only sound I can hear are our own breaths and the drip, drip, dripping of the water. I feel alone eventhough both Andrew and our guide is with me, but alone in a good way; the same kind of loneliness I feel when I'm out jogging on a cold, dark and rainy November evening. It is a feeling I enjoy and I allow myself to sink into it to better be able to grasp the beauty of the surrounding cave.
We leave our tubes on a little sandbank and preceed by foot or rather on our hands and knees. We crawl deep into the tunnel under the mountain, there is water everywhere. One time we stop to marvel at the sight och the light from our flashlights reflected in a million tiny drops of water in the cave ceiling. It looks like a starry winter sky and I stop breathing for a moment. We move on and follow the small canals that has formed the tunnel, we see stalactites and stalagmites in curious shapes and colours, in some rooms the walls sparkle from minerals that I cannot guess the name of. We don't speak.
After what might have been half an hour we come back to our tubes and preceed to paddle our way deeper into the waterfilled tunnel that forms the left part of the cave. The water is so cold and it clears your head and mind. We paddle for about ten minutes in the dark and I cannot keep myself from singing. What begun as a shy humming echoes out in the cave, the sound of the water accompanies my song and I feel very relaxed and content. I look up into the cave ceiling and dream about everything and nothing. The thought hits me that this must be what people seek when they meditate; the serene emptiness that is given to me by the beauty of this cave. Tham Loob.


Monkey Business

They have a baby monkey in a cage in Phoudindaeng village. Three times the question has been asked: Why do you have a baby monkey in a cage? These are the replyes:

                    1. Because we shot it's mother.

                    2. Because when we had it on a leash it kept biting people.

                    3. Because it tastes better when it's bigger.

Bad answers. Different custums. Interesting.


I am back at the farm now, after my little Thai adventure and the days are flying by. I spend most of my time with Houa, Yeng, Hai and Ohm; my h'mong friends and we have a really good time. Also Andrew has droped by on a visit and I think he will stay for a while. It's nice with a familiar face.

I really love it at the farm. It is so nice and peacefull and time just flyes by; which is one of the reasons I have decided I will leave. I am not done with travelling yet and there are quite a few places I want to see before I go home. I will stay at the farm until the 28th of April; which makes it two months of English teaching. And then I will head north, seeing some more of Laos and then head into the north of Thailand. I will have five weeks of travelling and I have some places in mind. I have talked to everybody at the farm and they think it's okay; so I guess it is all set. Three more weeks at the farm first though; and that is nothing I regrett!


42; not the answer to the question about life, the universe and everything...

It is 42 degrees Celsious in the shade. It can't be natural! I am slowly suffocating to death it feels like. Got sunstroke yesterday and have spent the hole night throwing up. Great fun! Today I have spent lying on the brick floor hugging a fan and longing for my cold and draughty room in Dublin, or daydreaming about walking home in far to cold clothes from a night on the town in January's Stockholm... Mmm someone take me there!

One thing I've realized on my little stay in Thailand is: I am so glad I chose Laos. The game here is totally different; it almost seems like the program is built for the benefit of the volunteers and not for the kids; which, in my opinion hardly benefits anybody. I'm sure I would have liked it here but I think Laos gives me so much more. Plus; it's cooler.. with the Nam Song bringing cold air from the mountains; it is actually bearable over there. We'll see how it will be in a few weeks time though. 

Now I have to go hug a fan again.

Love and hot kisses (sorry for basically only witing about the temperature; it is hard to think about anything else).

Mmm.. maybe I'll stop by seven-eleven and get an ice-cream; they have such modern stuff here (reffering to both seven-eleven and ice-creams).