The Little Meraid or Under the Sea or simply Paradise
At first you can't see it; the sun is to bright and the sand is white as snow. After a while your eyes gets used to the light and it appears as if called for by a Hogwarts wizard. Stunned you turn around to see the rest of the passangers on the boat grinning back at you; touching your face you realize that you look just as sheepish as them. The smile that appeared on my face on first sight of Pulau Kecil, the smallest of the Perhentian Islands, didn't wipe off for the hole time I stayed there (except when I got a urin infection from too much swimming, but with a little medecin it all worked out fine and the smile was back). Finally I understand the term: Paradise Island.
Our first day was lazy. Changing between shade and sun, working on the tan, walking up and down the beach, having good food and enjoying life. Sharing a very basic chalet (yes on the Perhentains they don't have bungalows; they have chalets) with my friend Paul; being bitten or eaten by mosquitoes (they just don't respect the repellant any more) but that wasn't nearly enough to put us down. Waking up at 3 AM to se Liverpool - AC Milan batteling for the Champions League title and life was complete; beach and football (soccer; just for you Andrew), what else is there?
The next morning our friends from Cameron Highlands arrived and set up camp in a couple of chalets on the other side of the beach. A nice bunch of people, three English guys and a Canadian girl, we also befriended two Swedish siblings (from Dalarna) and that made our gang complete. Excellent group of people.
Renting a canoe and some snorkelling gear and we got our exercise of the day. Slowly but steadily following the coastline, being stunned everytime we passed a new cove and amazed at the fish and corals under the sea. I think I might have scared away a fish or two with my far too loud version of every single "Litlle Mermaid"- song, but the occasion required it and who am I to say no?
We spent the evenings in high profile aswell; most of the time you'd find us on the veranda of the diving school drinking whatever there was and playng "Settlers" (a really funny board game the Swedes brought with them). Or we might just be in the sand somewhere chatting away ( or getting buried, right Tom?).
The best hours of or island retreat must have been the snorkelling tour though. It was spectacular! We stoped at a couple of different places; all gorgeous and with great names such as; Shark Reef, Turle Point and Fish Garden. And they really earned up to their names; the fact was we saw both sharks and turtles (and fish, but none of them were gardening). I got overly excited when we, at the first place saw a Nemo-fish, but that was just the start. The highlight must have been Turtle Point; we were cruising around in our boat; waiting for the turtles to surface for breathing. As soon as we spotted one the driver went into highspeed and we jumped of the boat and persued it. Turtles are amazing creatures. We saw five (three different spieces) and they were all magnificent, the way they move, just like flying a few decimeters above the bottom. Slowly, not caring you're there; staring at them. They have an honorable way about them, peaceful and majestic; and huge (I think most of them were as big, if not bigger than me). I get an adrenaline rush just thinking about it.
The shark was cool, a bit scary though. It took us a little while before we realized it was actually circling us. When we described it to the others they just chuckled a bit and said stuff like; "Oh, you don't want to mess with that one". Funny because me and Paul were messing around with the "Jaws"-tune just seconds earlier, might be why we jumped (figure of speach, you can't actually jump in the water) when we saw it.
The Fish Garden was crazy; the boat drivers keep feeding the fish toast (they like that for some reason) and as soon as they see the boat they go crazy. Getting into the water I must have knocked a couple of fish blurry and when you go below the surface you have a hard time actually seeing the water. The fish even tried to eat my bracelets (apperantly they resemble toast) which brought forth a series of girlish screams and giggles even I didn't know I could master.
We had some more sun and then a nice send-off to ourselves, the islands and our Swedish buds (they're going to Kuala Lumpur) Sunday before leaving on Monday morning (maybe noon doesn't count as morning back home but it does here). After 20 hours of travelling, with some hillarious travelling stories, a taste is; getting caught in a monsoon, being chased by dogs, hitch-hiking, Thai kareoke and a lot of tired laughing, we find ourselves (I am still a bit surprised) on Ko Pha Ngan. Didn't really see that one coming, but it kind of makes sense; this is where I started my travelling with Jossan in January and this is where I'll end it with this lovely group of people. It feels good, I'll have two drunken, sunny days here before going to Bangkok on Thursday. Catching the flight home on Saturday night and on Sunday I'll be back on Lidingo. Feels like a happy ending.
Tea is the stairway to heaven
I am actually a bit closer to heaven, being in the mountains and all, but the altitude and change in temperature has a bit of a downside; it has given me a nasty cold. Bla! I'm sneezing and coughing galore, but it too will pass. I am having a marvelous time anyhow. So far I have been trekking the jungle, visiting tea farms, strawberry farms, honey farms, insect and snake sanctuaries, rose gardens and more. I am staying at a nice place with nightly bonfires and a lot of nice people (but of course Jackson; with the compulsary bed bugs and rats, but they seem to be everywhere). Drinking far to much local rhum and basically enjoying life.
Yesterday it hit me; I really can't avoid it anymore. The longing, the need and the craving for... the beach. Tomorrow I'm off to what seems to be paradise on earth; the Perenhatian Islands. White sand, blue sea (you know the deal) and beautiful snorkelling and sea turtles. I can't wait! Only 15 hours of travelling remains between me and heaven. Don't be surprised if that is my last destinaton before Bangkok. Beach-Baywatch-Bimbo? No, more of a.. Sunrise-Snokelling-Seashell-Chick. That's me in wo days! Tallyhoo!
Now I'm off for some beautiful Indian-Malay food; I can't get enough! Everyday is one for a new favourite dish... mmm
The smell of saffron and durian
Malaysian people roughly consists of three ethnic groups: The Chinese, the Indian and the Malays (who are muslim and in majority). None of these groups are originaly from today's Malaysian territory, eventhough the Malays claim to be; truth is they emigrated from Indonesia.
What makes the everyday stroll down a KL street such an experience is that all of these different culures seems to nurture their own customs like babies. There are beautiful Indian women in colourful saris and bindis walking next to Chinese women, white as milk. Then there are the muslim women who are easily recognized by their veils and colourful clothing. Always matching and with beautiful jewellery decorating their veils, they might actually beat the Indian women in beauty.
Then there is the food and even more so the smell of it. Indian, Chinese and Maly food are all savoury enough to make you druel and the smells are a good indicator of what is in store. To complete the feast of the senses there is music everywhere, mostly Indian pop and muslim chants, mixed with the roars from the cars and busses and the buzz of the people. In KL you don't walk down a streets; you consume it, you see it, you hear it and you smell it, while being pushed around like a rubber duck in the Atlantic ocean.
Despite this, arriving in the capital city wasn't the warmest of welcomings. Greeted by a fierce thunder storm and pooring (!) rain, also being more than an hour late could have brought a smaller traveller down; but not me. No no.
I found myself an excellent, shabby (end of Singaporian splendor) but rather cozy guesthouse filled to the brim with agreable people and spent the evening playing cards and drinking rum. Malay style. Then I went to bed rather content with my day.
I woke up early due to the smell in my room (jasmine incense only help to a certain extent) and exited the guesthouse to make my way to the tallest twin towers in tha world; namely Petrona Towers (in the heart of Kuala Lumpur). I had a well-spent morning quing for two hours to go up the sky bridge (which is only halfway) and stare at the view for three minutes. The first thing I realized while stepping out on the sky bridge was that while I had been quing the beautiful, clear morning had turned into hazy midday. Oh well, what do you do?
The day continued in a better fashion with some Nasi Goreng for lunch and a nice stroll through China Town, Little India and the Central Market. To top it off I made a visit to the National History Museem, which was very interesting indeed. For those of you ho don't know to much about Malaysian history I can inform you that it is rather unfree. Malaysia has been in the possession of the Dutch, the English and the Japaneese before it gained independence in 1957 (how many years ago is that? I'll get back to that later).
In the evening I tagged along to what we thought was a shadow puppet show at the national theater; it turned out to be a tribute to China show. But is was free and goofy and we had a good time giggling at the different flowery dances (performed with ultimate seriousness). Then we took a stroll around the lake next to the theatre and decided to have a go at the "Eye of Malaysia", a huge Paris-wheel celebrating Malaysia's 50 years of nationhood. To make it an evening we drank tea and smoked waterpipe for the rest of the night (for att hedra Linda saklart).
Today I have been utterly Muslim. I have visited the National Mosque and the Museum of Islamic Arts. Quite a fascinating day really and a lot learnt. At the Mosque I got a lecture of Islam and Muslim believes by a very interesting man. When I left he snuck a copy of the holy Qua'aran in my hand and said: "I hope you come back a Muslim." This was not done as an action as religeus fanatism, nor was it in any way unpleasant; it was just a gift from a man who seriously belived and who wanted me to see what he saw.
I also met a very impressive Syrain woman, married to a Malay man and she gave me her view of being a woman and a Muslim. She was a very intellegent, strong and proud woman and in her eyes all the actions of Islam that we find oppressive were really to honour women. It was not in any way a weird angle; I guess what I really learnt today is that it matters more WHO you are looking, than WHAT you are looking at to form conclusions. I think this day was one of those days that needs pondering; maybe i should go get a "tay si kosong" (tea with milk, not so sweet) and do just that.
Some info before I go: Tomorrow i'm probably leaving for the Cameron Highlands (where they make tea!). I have found a very nice English travelling companion (so don't worry dear parents).
Over and out!
Parata and Prada
Being met at the airport I realized what it is that I miss from home. Being given meatballs and herring for dinner, mashed potatoes and lingonberry jam; savoury flavors of mummy and distant memories of rushing off for soccer practise. I did not spit it out.
Sleeping in a bed made of clouds and feathers. Taking a shower in hot water. A clean room. Things I didn't know I missed. Thanks Jill, Bjorn and Henrik for letting me into your home and for welcoming me without question. The welcoming part was probably the most treasured of the gifts of Singapore.
Then there was the Lion City.
Arriving around lunchtime Sunday I was met by Jill at the airport ( it felt crazy good to be scouting for someone at arrival) and she put me in the car and we headed straight to Raffles Hotel to consume my very first Singapore Sling (yes Jossan, I had one. Pillutta dig!). For those of you who are not yet enlightened about the Singapore Sling I'll fill you in: Singapore Sling was invented in the Long Bar at Raffles Hotel, Singapore. It was originaly designed for women but became a hit with the men too and for some reason it is world famous. They say it can only be made to perfection at Raffles (which is an enormous hotel complex covering a hole block). The Singapore Sling is as pink as baboon's as and tastes like bubble gum. It is served with a piece of pinapple and a cherry. Use that knowledge in your future lives.
The Long Bar itself is quite a quaint place, which I instantly came to like. It looks like a hub for journalists in the 1940's (which is probably because it was) and they serve excellent peanuts with the shell still on; apperantly it is the only place in Singapore where you are aloud to litter the floor (that would be with peanut shells, they crush under your feet when you walk and make a delightful sound).
After this little adventure I had some time for myself and I decided it was time for a stroll along Orchard Road. I know a few people (you know who you are) who would have made more out of that stroll than I did. I can mention a few who would have gone home with a shopping bag or two. But as it turns out Versage, Prada and YSL are not (or have never been) my preference for my shopping. I did some window shopping though and had a good laugh at the prices with some fellow spartanian people. Then I bought a big ice cream and went home content with my Orchard promenade.
Museum galore. That is another way to describe my trip to Singapore. I had time to visit three excellent museum, with Asian Civilizations Museum at the top and the National History Museum as a nice runner up. Equally I had time to enjoy three exhibitions about Singapore's history (please someone give me a pop-quiz!). Immensely intriguing since they were all angled to perfection and very much "Go Singapore! Best place on the planet. Oh we love the oh glorious nation." Fascinating!
The weather in Singapore is the same everyday. This leads to a serious hole in the small talk portfolio. Where we would say: "What awful weather it was yesterday!" or "Isn't the temperature lovely this morning?", the Singaporians have found a good replacement: They talk food. Singaporians are very serious about their food; I had some lovely food in Singapore. You can enjoy whatever you like in this cultural hub of a city.
Spending time with Jill and Erica (a Canadian girl, living in Singapore, met her in Laos) I had a wonderful four days in the Lion City (I ended up being far to comfortable to leave on Wednesday as planned). The final impressions that I had was that the city was far less sterile than I thought, more humane. Of course it is controlled and censured crazily but they do it very smoothly. It is easy to be in the oblivian if you've grown up in this bubble of a trading hub and I think many Singaporians rather happily are. Scary but true.
Today I entered my sixth and last country. I am currently staying in the capital of Malaysia, for those of you who need to brush up on your geography, it's called Kuala Lumpur.
Tea and elephants
Fully recovered and with the nose full of polluted motorbike fumes she looked back at her decition to stay in Chiang Mai and she saw that it was good. She had overcome the decease that threatened to bring her down into a well of despare and she had spent her two days of health on a motorbike with a Frenchman called Malik.
It is easy to meet people here. This time all it took was a worried consultation with a trecherous stomach, pondering on what to order for lunch, when Mr Malik stepped in and explained exactly what dish I should endulge in. Following his advice I understood that this was a man who new his Thai dishes and as it turned out he had lived in Chiang Mai for a year. Seeing that I was a natural ambivalent concering food he offered to take me out for the night and so he did. Cruising through the Chiang Mai traffic on the back of a motorbike is an enjoyable experience, be sure, but it got better. Starting the evening with a Thai orange tea at a cosy little riverside cafe we had a nice chat about life, the universe and everything. Continuing to The Drunken Flower (probably the best named bar in the whole of SE Asia) treating our ears to some fine, live music presented to us by an American and an Englis woman in perfect harmony (except for some highly amusing accent differences). Me being on antibiotics exploring the different juices and teas (I love being on penecillin; excellent excuse to trade the beer for a tea) we both had a delightful "white" evening. The evening continued at a very quaint little student hang-out in centre ville; Thais only, and ended at an excellent reggea bar in the turist area, fantastic live music! An evening well spent (and I didn´t have to spend a nickel).
The three days following this evening continued in the same sense. By back of motorbike I saw most of Chiang Mai´s sights, restaurants and bars (still on tea). One highlight was the Thai milkbar we visited, we indulged in an Alaska (a giant ice cream mountain tasting of milk and honey) and a gummy gummy (for anyone who likes gummy bears; my mum would have loved it!). Another peak was the Thai buffe, with a bbq and a steamer in the centre of the table. Picking meat and giant prawns at the 'all you can eat' - counter and "chucking them on the bobby" as the aussies would say. Delicious. We went to a fancy pants hotel but it gave me the creaps so we went for a fruit shake at an Asian restaurant instead. We also went up to the temple on the big hill; very holy and a beautiful view of the city. On the way down we had us some nice ice-cream straight from the dairy factory.
Also we had us a nice little insident at the 'ghost town'; we fell over with the bike (one and only time according to Malik), we were going at around 2,3 km/ hour so we didn't suffer any serious injuries but when we got up the bike wouldn't start. It was about my funniest moment seing Malik being more and more freaked out by the 'ghost town', all along me making scary sounds and then pretending it rained. I guess I'm just plain mean, or maybe a bit of a black witch (would it surprise anybody?).
In my decition to stay in Chiang Mai lay another smaller decition. Being ill had defenitely saved me some cash; laying in my bed only eating some bread doesn't make the coins roll. I decided that since I had a bad time saving it I should have a good time spending it. I should go for a tour and be damned if I shouldn't see some elephants in the go (I've had an embarrassingly small amount of elephants on this trip!).
I was well prepared before the tour, I was set on making the most of it. I have not been on many tours on my jerney (mostly because they are pricy and frankly I don't like them very much) but I must give them one plus; they are truly relaxing- for one day I did not have to use my brain once and I didn't have to make one decition (not even what I wanted for lunch; oh glorious buffe!). So before the bus picked me up at the guesthouse I had relaxed my jaw, dulled my eyes, let my back get crocked and basically threw all will power and independent behaviour out the window. I became a true tourist. It was a nice day but at the end of it I was pretty content with going back to the independent travellers scene. I rode a big elephant (and even got to 'drive' it), I saw an elephant show where the elephants drew paintings and played football (soccer), I went on a raft ride and on an ox cart, I had a poorly made Asian buffe, I went to an orchid farm and a butterfly farm. Good day, glad it's over. Later that evening I went to the night market and that was the end of my stay in Chiang Mai; and in Thailand for that sake, because early Sunday morning I set off for a new adventure. This time Singapore.
Every cloud has a silver lining
I did get my as to the hospital on Monday and took a Malaria test, just to be sure. And I proudly declare: Me not have Malaria! Which effectively points out the other positive angle of this infection; it could be worse (I also took the time too have a doctor look at tha funny bite on my knee and it turns out I don't have ringworm either!).
No Malaria, but rather some Laotian stomach bacteria combined with a neat little flue (curse thau slowboat!).
Today I feel better and I have actually left the hotelroom (great success!). With my two German roomates departing for Sukhothai I stand before the choice of either lingering in Chiang Mai until my flight on Sunday or I might take a bus up to Pai in the afternoon to catch some fresh mountain air and get out of the noisy town. I'll probably flip a coin for it..
Thanks for all your sweet comments by the way, love you for them. Keep em coming!
Fia, det ar helt okej att kommentera kommentarerna och klart du ar valkommen i Bastad. Du kan vara dar hela sommarn om du kanner for det!
Right, and for some requested info: I'm coming home on the morning of the 3rd of June and I'll be in Stockholm for 2 weeks before heading for Bastad to take up my beloved job at ICA (bip.. bip.. bip 46,50 please). Hopefully I'll have plenty of time to meet up with all my lovely friends in Stockholm, och se DIF storspela fran sektion M! Klart vi ska ses Jacob!
Merde! I think I'll grab my bag and take off for Pai.. or? Lucky Bath comes in coins!
PS. Grattis pa fodelsedagen kara, underbara Naomi! Jag avbojer din batklubb men jag pussar dig pa hall! DS.
The slowboat from hell or upstream
I knew it was going to be uncomfortable. I was prepared for 2 times 9 hours on a wooden bench without a cushion. But I did not see it coming.
The first day was okay. I mean; my but was quite sore and it was raining and cold for most of the day, but the company was nice and we got there reasonably on time. The landscape was nice, not breathtaking (like the road between Vang Vieng and Ponsavan), but nice. All in all it was quite an agreeable jerney and I had a nice book to pass the time (Papillon by Henri Charriere- read it!).
But, oh my God the second day! I name it the worst day of this whole trip and I sure hope it will remain so.
It probably would have been okay if we hadn't changed boats. The new one was an old, oily floating thing. The benches wasn't stuck to the floor; interesting on a rocking boat. The engine was louder than a Kiss konsert and made it impossable to have any kind of conversation. After about 13 minutes it gave you a splendid headache.
But it probably would have been okay if it wasn't for the storm. It started about 35 minutes after we left Pak Beng (where we spent the night) and it blew right in our faces for the rest of the trip. Wind, rain, waves, we were all shivering. It was raining so much it was hard to tell the Mekong from the air; both contained an equal amount of water. Luckily the boat had a roof- but no walls.
But it might have been fine if it wasn't for me being conveniently stricken with travellers stomach and had to go to the 'toilet' every thirty minutes or so. Nasty.
But sure enough, I might have survived all of this if I hadn't been lucky enough to catch some kind of strange fever (probably related to the changes in temperature these last days, super cold- super hot- super cold). I have first hand witnesses who can tell you that my lips went a beautiful blue color, nicely accompanying my bright red face. I tell you, I was suffering!
Because of the storm the trip took eleven lovely hours instead of nine and we reached Hoixao in Laos after the boarder to Thailand closed (not that I would have managed to get to the boarder anyways). So I checked into a 2 dollar guesthouse, stuffed myself with painkillers and slept for 12 hours. After a careful breakfast I felt up for taking the boat to Thailand. I'm staying in Thai border town of Chiang Khong for the day to recover and I'll take the bus to Chiang Mai tomorrow.
First thing I did here was taking a Thai massage (yes, Jossan I gave it another chance and it was heavenly!) and after som proper food I feel like a new woman. Also, getting my own bungalow for 100 bath (20kr, 2euro) made my mood rise. Hello Thailand!
I am so glad yesterday is now the past; it surely makes me enjoy the present. After a day like that I name myself a hard-core traveller.
Dripping
This is where I was playing yesterday. Kind of lovely, and with a really nice group of people as well. The water was absolutely wonderfull, and I jumped from the waterfall (not this one!) and swung from a "lian" (have no idea what it's caled in English, the one Tarzan uses).
Sunset from Mount Phusi
Self explanatoiry................... wow
Luang Prabang
The view of Luang Prabang from Mount Phusi. It was worth the climb! Anyone wonder why the city is on the UNESCO list? I don't! Good work French colonial architechts.
Living lightly in Luang Prabang
I will put some pictures on the blogg to give you an idea of what I have been up to these last few days.
One random story before I go. I went out yeaterday with my firend Lillith (German girl I'm sharing rooms with) and everything closes at midnight (it's not to sympathise with Cinderella it's because Laos is a communist country and there is a curfew). Everything closes, but the bowling alley, yes that's right there is a bowling alley in Laos, probably the most technologically advanced place in the whole country. So that is what I was doing last night, boozing and bowling. Didn't see that one coming, life's full of surprises!
Plain of Jars
A jar of Mickan, no added perservatives. Kom och kop konserverad Mickan!
By the truck
All of us in Ponsavan beside our trusty truck. Now we're of to the Plain of Jars!
Xien Khuan
Others did not enjoy the jerney as much; 8 of the people in the back of the truck threw up repetedly and most were sick. I did as my mommy always told me, looked out the "window" (there was no window) and sang to myself. It always works, my mommy is a very wise woman.
We reached Ponsavan (the city closest to the Plain of Jars) in the evening and after a meal we all went to bed. Knackered from the wind.
We were up early and went to the morning market for breakfast before taking off for the Plain of Jars. It was fabulous! The jars are a complete mystery, no one knows their age or purpose but they are just massive stone jugs scattered around a rather big area. In the future scientists hope to be able to gain some more knowledge about the hstory of the jars but the area sa heavily minated so right now further research is impossible. Sad but true. Also, scatterd around the area like beautymarks are huge bomb craters from the Vietnamese War. It is a bit scary, knowing the bombs fell 40 years ago and still the craters are easily visable. As Cameron pointed out, it is also forty years of new bomb techniques, it gave you a sense of what the bombs of today can do.
After the Jars Mr.T took us to a kind of Laotian spa out in the country side. they had hot springs, the water was actually boiling, very nice and comforting once it cooled down a bit. It was funny but I think we might have been the first westerners there. Me and Kirstie went for a walk by the fields and people stared at us in amazement, one guy actually dropped the log he was carrying just cause he was so eager to fix his hair. A lot of smiles and kind faces, we felt really welcome.
About halfway back to the farm Mr.T dropped me off and I caught a bus to Luang Prabang. It was heartfelt goodbyes but I am happy to be off on my own adventures again!
Goodbye farm
Kirstie, Sue, Cameron Mrs. T, Moi, AB, Mr. T's daughter, Mr.T and Younyin. The one with the tail is Maya.
Sokhdii!!!
Goodbye all you lovely students in Ban Phoudindaeng! I love you all so much!
In the school
In the first class.
Going to school
Some of the kids from the first class posing before my last class in Ban Phoudindaeng. I got the flower from one of them the minute before. I love kids who suck up to the teacher!