mickan in world

Walking down the streets of Kuala Lumpur is like being in a loud, polluted, colourful, cultural cloud. It is like being in a Jonathan Swift book, influensed by Douglas Adam's wit and speed.

Malaysian people roughly consists of three ethnic groups: The Chinese, the Indian and the Malays (who are muslim and in majority). None of these groups are originaly from today's Malaysian territory, eventhough the Malays claim to be; truth is they emigrated from Indonesia.
What makes the everyday stroll down a KL street such an experience is that all of these different culures seems to nurture their own customs like babies. There are beautiful Indian women in colourful saris and bindis walking next to Chinese women, white as milk. Then there are the muslim women who are easily recognized by their veils and colourful clothing. Always matching and with beautiful jewellery decorating their veils, they might actually beat the Indian women in beauty.
Then there is the food and even more so the smell of it. Indian, Chinese and Maly food are all savoury enough to make you druel and the smells are a good indicator of what is in store. To complete the feast of the senses there is music everywhere, mostly Indian pop and muslim chants, mixed with the roars from the cars and busses and the buzz of the people. In KL you don't walk down a streets; you consume it, you see it, you hear it and you smell it, while being pushed around like a rubber duck in the Atlantic ocean.

Despite this, arriving in the capital city wasn't the warmest of welcomings. Greeted by a fierce thunder storm and pooring (!) rain, also being more than an hour late could have brought a smaller traveller down; but not me. No no.

I found myself an excellent, shabby (end of Singaporian splendor) but rather cozy guesthouse filled to the brim with agreable people and spent the evening playing cards and drinking rum. Malay style. Then I went to bed rather content with my day.

I woke up early due to the smell in my room (jasmine incense only help to a certain extent) and exited the guesthouse to make my way to the tallest twin towers in tha world; namely Petrona Towers (in the heart of Kuala Lumpur). I had a well-spent morning quing for two hours to go up the sky bridge (which is only halfway) and stare at the view for three minutes. The first thing I realized while stepping out on the sky bridge was that while I had been quing the beautiful, clear morning had turned into hazy midday. Oh well, what do you do?

The day continued in a better fashion with some Nasi Goreng for lunch and a nice stroll through China Town, Little India and the Central Market. To top it off I made a visit to the National History Museem, which was very interesting indeed. For those of you ho don't know to much about Malaysian history I can inform you that it is rather unfree. Malaysia has been in the possession of the Dutch, the English and the Japaneese before it gained independence in 1957 (how many years ago is that? I'll get back to that later).

In the evening I tagged along to what we thought was a shadow puppet show at the national theater; it turned out to be a tribute to China show. But is was free and goofy and we had a good time giggling at the different flowery dances (performed with ultimate seriousness). Then we took a stroll around the lake next to the theatre and decided to have a go at the "Eye of Malaysia", a huge Paris-wheel celebrating Malaysia's 50 years of nationhood. To make it an evening we drank tea and smoked waterpipe for the rest of the night (for att hedra Linda saklart).

Today I have been utterly Muslim. I have visited the National Mosque and the Museum of Islamic Arts. Quite a fascinating day really and a lot learnt. At the Mosque I got a lecture of Islam and Muslim believes by a very interesting man. When I left he snuck a copy of the holy Qua'aran in my hand and said: "I hope you come back a Muslim." This was not done as an action as religeus fanatism, nor was it in any way unpleasant; it was just a gift from a man who seriously belived and who wanted me to see what he saw.
I also met a very impressive Syrain woman, married to a Malay man and she gave me her view of being a woman and a Muslim. She was a very intellegent, strong and proud woman and in her eyes all the actions of Islam that we find oppressive were really to honour women. It was not in any way a weird angle; I guess what I really learnt today is that it matters more WHO you are looking, than WHAT you are looking at to form conclusions. I think this day was one of those days that needs pondering; maybe i should go get a "tay si kosong" (tea with milk, not so sweet) and do just that.

Some info before I go: Tomorrow i'm probably leaving for the Cameron Highlands (where they make tea!). I have found a very nice English travelling companion (so don't worry dear parents).

Over and out!